Does your cat need a new home?

Finding a home for an adult cat isn’t always easy, and it won’t happen overnight. However, with time, patience, and effort on your part, it is absolutely possible. Simply mentioning it to friends and acquaintances isn’t enough – you need to make sure the entire town knows your cat exists and is looking for a new home.

FIND YOUR CAT A NEW HOME Behaviour Advice

Steps to Find Your Cat a New Home

As a no-kill facility, our shelter is in high demand. On average, we receive over 100 requests for help each month but due to our limited space, we can only accommodate approximately six new cats per month, depending on our adoption rate. To give your cat the best chance at a smooth transition, we encourage you to follow the steps below. With time, effort, and proper advertising, you can often find your cat a loving new home without resorting to a shelter. While our shelter provides a comfortable, home-like environment, any shelter setting can be stressful for a cat. Do your cat a favour – take the time to advertise and find them the home they deserve.

Step 1 – Advertise

Placing an ad in the local newspaper can be an effective way to find your cat a new home. Running an ad every week or two is usually very affordable, and we have seen great success with this method.

Honesty is Key
When advertising, it’s essential to be honest about your cat’s personality, preferences, and needs. Finding the right match is crucial because placing your cat in the wrong home can be stressful and disruptive for everyone involved, especially your cat.

Consider including the following details in your ad:
• Compatibility – Does your cat get along with other cats? Dogs? Children?
• Health Concerns – Any medical conditions that require ongoing care?
• Behaviour – Any aggression issues or special temperament traits?
• Lifestyle Needs – Indoor cat, or does it prefer some outdoor access?

Take the time to find the right match. If you know your cat wouldn’t be happy in a certain type of household, don’t consider candidates who don’t meet those needs. Being selective ensures a successful, stress-free transition for both your cat and its new family.

Step 2 – Put Up Posters

A well-placed poster can be a powerful way to find your cat a new home, especially one with a clear, eye-catching photo. Colour photocopies are now quite affordable and can make a big difference in grabbing attention.

Where to Post Your Flyers:
• Around town and in surrounding areas: The more people you reach, the better your chances.
• Pet food stores and veterinary clinics: Many have adoption boards specifically for rehoming pets.
• Libraries and grocery stores: Most have public bulletin boards where you can post flyers.

Be sure to include essential details such as your cat’s personality, needs, and how interested adopters can contact you. The wider you spread the word, the better chance you have of finding the perfect home!

Step 3 – Notify Local Vet Clinics

Veterinary clinics can be a valuable resource when searching for a new home for your cat. Many clinics maintain bulletin boards, adoption lists, or networks of pet owners who may be looking to adopt. You can also ask about additional resources: some vets may have recommendations for other rescues, social media groups, or websites where you can list your cat.

Step 4 – Check Out Social Media & Internet Adoption Sites

The internet is one of the most powerful tools for finding a new home for your cat. Many websites and social media groups are dedicated to pet adoption and rehoming, and using these platforms can help you reach a much larger audience quickly.

Social Media: A Powerful Adoption Tool
Local and regional Facebook groups for pet adoptions can be an excellent way to connect with potential adopters. Many communities have:
• Pet adoption and rehoming groups
• Lost & found pet groups (which sometimes allow rehoming posts)
• Local community pages where pet-friendly homes may be looking

Posting in multiple local groups can significantly increase visibility for your cat. Be sure to include clear photos, a detailed description, and important information about their temperament and needs.

Pet Adoption Websites
In addition to social media, consider listing your cat on reputable pet adoption sites. We are listed on Petfinder, a well-known platform that helps connect adoptable pets with loving homes. You can create your own listing for your cat on Petfinder to increase their chances of finding the right match.

VISIT PETFINDER

What If No One Will Want My Cat?

Many people worry that their cat is “unadoptable” due to issues like:
• Not using the little box consistently
• Being a senior cat
• Having health concerns
• Showing signs of aggression
While these situations can make rehoming more challenging, they do not make it impossible. In many cases, the right home can completely resolve behavioural issues, and there are adopters out there willing to take in senior or special-needs cats.

Behavioural Issues & Rehoming
Many behavioural issues stem from the cat being unhappy in it’s current home rather than a permanent issue. If medical concerns are ruled out, finding the right home environment often leads to huge improvement in behaviour.
For example:
• A cat that urinates outside the litter box may stop once placed in a calmer home
• A cat that is aggressive towards other pets may thrive as a single cat in another home
• A senior or special-needs cat may find an adopter who wants to help a cat in need

Why Honesty Matters
When rehoming, it’s crucial to to be upfront about your cat’s needs. A potential adopter should know what to expect so they can be proactive in ensuring a smooth transition. For example, if your cat doesn’t like dogs, don’t place them in a home with a dog – it will only cause stress and potential litter box issues.

There are people out there willing to adopt senior, special-needs, or behaviourally complex cats. The key is finding the right match rather than just any home.

Tips on Screening Adopters

It’s natural to worry about whether a potential adopter will provide a good home for your cat. Screening adopters properly helps ensure a safe and lasting placement.

Start by talking to them over the phone rather than relying solely on texts or emails. Messages can be misleading or lack depth, whereas a real conversation allows you to gauge their tone, experience, and level of commitment.

During the call, ask questions such as:
• Have you had cats before?
• Do you have other pets? How do they interact with cats?
• What is your home environment like? (quiet, busy, children, etc)
• Are you prepared for any adjustments this cat may need? (eg moving)

Often, you’ll get a strong sense of the person within the first 10-15 minutes of talking with them. If something feels off, trust your instincts – your cat’s well-being is the priority. Taking the time to carefully screen adopters ensures your cat finds a home where they will be truly safe, happy, and loved.

• Have you ever owned a cat before? What became of that cat??
• Why do you want to adopt my cat?
• What will happen to my cat if your lifestyle changes and you can’t care for them anymore?
• Do you plan to let the cat go outdoors?
• Who will be responsible for the cat’s care?
• What will you do with the cat if you go away on vacation?

It can be difficult to turn someone down without causing offense, but your priority is finding the right home for your cat. If something feels off or their references raise concerns, it’s okay to be cautious. A polite and effective way to handle this is to say:
“I have other applications pending, and I’ll be making a decision within the next 48 hours. I’ll let you know if you’re the right fit for my cat.”

This approach keeps it professional and non-confrontational, making it easier to decline without unnecessary conflict. Trust your instincts if something feels wrong: it’s okay to say no. Your cat’s well-being comes first.

You can ask a potential adopter for animal related references such as their vet, groomer, pet-sitter, etc. This can give you an idea of what kind of pet owner the person may be.

To ensure a smooth transition, consider offering a return policy. This provides peace of mind for both you and the adopter:

• For the adopter: They won’t feel “stuck” if the cat isn’t a good fit, making them more comfortable committing to the adoption.
• For you: You’ll know your cat won’t be abandoned or euthanized if the new home doesn’t work out.

Remember that adjustment takes time. Many cats need at least 2-3 weeks to settle into a new environment. Encourage adopters to give the cat time to adjust before considering a return. However, if it truly isn’t a good fit, having an open return policy ensures your cat stays safe and can be rehomed properly.

It’s not necessary to have every applicant come to your home to meet your cat – only invite those who seem like a good fit. Most cats are naturally wary of strangers and may run and hide, so there’s no reason to subject them to unnecessary stress if the adopters aren’t suitable.

Setting Up a Successful Meeting:
• Don’t bring the cat to the adopters; instead, bring the adopters to the cat. Forcing interaction will only increase stress.
• Keep the environment calm by avoiding overstimulating your cat before the meeting. Let them go about their normal routine leading up to the introduction.
• Sit quietly and let the cat set the pace: Allow the cat to approach on its own terms. Keep voices calm and avoid sudden movements.

By making the experience low-stress and natural, you increase the chances of a successful introduction and a positive connection between your cat and their potential new family.

Cat Surrender Form

Tips to Adjust Your Cat to its New Environment

Proper integration of a cat into a new home is a critical step in making it work. It’s not advised to take a cat home and let it free in the house at first. It is terrifying and extremely overwhelming to them and will set your relationship off to a terrible start.

Here are some articles for a new owner that will help settle your cat into its new home. Please review these prior to introducing a new cat into the house:

By Jackson Galaxy

Congratulations on giving a homeless animal a new life in your home! You can bet on one thing; the cat you just adopted is in the midst of having her world turned upside down. Routine is a vital aspect of cat life; it’s key in how cats define territory. Things must look the same, smell the same, and so on in order for confidence in the territory to remain high. Now imagine the life your new companion was leading before he came to live with you. It makes no difference whether we are talking about a 7-year-old cat you adopted from the shelter or rescued from the street, or a 6-week-old kitten from a box in front of a supermarket. This cat’s sense of “stable-sameness” has been torn up by the roots. Knowing this (even if you know very little else about your new cat’s history), there is a very simple way of acclimating your cat to your home. You may not have time to plan ahead, since new feline additions tend to occur on the spur of the moment, but if you can give the cat an immediate sense of belonging to a space that is already set up, it will make him feel more secure. What does “set up” mean? Let’s start with the essentials:

Litterbox
Litter (if you know the previous home, make sure to keep the litter type consistent)
Dishes (glass or ceramic work best for both food and water; no plastic or steel)
Scratching surface—a condo/post combination would be a great start to get your cat’s scent thoroughly on a piece of furniture; but at least provide an inexpensive cardboard scratcher to begin with.
Assortment of toys— but “just say no” to catnip if introducing a kitten!
If you are adding a kitten to your home, please read our library article “Before You Get A Kitten” about kitten-proofing your base camp.

Now that you have the “what,” let’s focus on the “where.” If you are introducing an only cat to the home who is not a kitten (over 1 year old), your bedroom is an ideal base camp, because it will inevitably become the core of your cat’s territory. Your bedroom is where your scent is the strongest in the house, and this will give your feline friend a sense of belonging with the new social group. However, if you have an aversion to having base camp in your bedroom, what with the litterbox and all, that’s okay. Another room will work. Remember, however, that base camp is a temporary situation—the litterbox, condo, dishes and toys will all eventually be distributed throughout your home. In any case, if you choose another room, make sure it’s not in the basement or unused part of the house. You do want a space where your cat’s highly refined senses can pick up the normal household activities that he will eventually be immersed in. This is, after all, a process of desensitization, of gradually getting them used to the territory.

If your new arrival is a kitten, or if you are introducing a new cat to another pet, the bathroom is a great place to start. For kittens, it provides safety. There is the least amount of wires to chew on or get tangled in, sharp corners to injure, and small places to get stuck in (but don’t forget to keep the toilet lid down to prevent drowning). The smaller space will also comfort the smaller cat. The bathroom is also a more neutral site for the purposes of introducing one pet to another. It is also the only room in the house guaranteed to have a door—an important characteristic of the room!

Take all of the items listed above and make sure they are placed in every available corner of base camp. Food dish should have ample space away from water; both dishes should be located in the furthest area from the litterbox. If you can provide a condo, place it where the cat can get to a window. Scatter the toys around the room (although if we’re lucky the cat will do that job for us very nicely, thank you!). If the room is not the bedroom, do make sure to provide articles of clothing, blankets, or towels, anything that carries your and your family’s scent—to give the cat that immediate sense of belonging we discussed.

Spend as much time with the new cat as you can during the first crucial days of base camping. Among the toys, you should have at least one interactive toy (a toy in which you are attached to one end and the cat to the other), to play with while you spend quality time. This will set up a routine of play to dispel stress, which is the basis of play therapy (you can read more about this in our article library article, “Play Therapy—Every Day!”). Also, take this time to set up a trusting relationship. Talk to your cat. Don’t necessarily try to pick him or even pet him, if he is acting fearful. Give it time.

Don’t crowd the base camp with every family member either. Cats on edge have a heightened sense of their already keen fight/flight response. Give everyone a turn, but let all family members know that quality time can be playing, or simply sitting and reading the newspaper aloud in a soft voice. Be aware of the small things like how your legs might be blocking what the cat perceives as an “escape route.” Make yourself as small as possible when sitting on the floor with the cat, especially in a cramped base camp like the bathroom.

It is not at all unusual for the new cat to seem extra-sensitive, fearful, agitated, or is just having a hard time adjusting. Flower essence formulas from Spirit Essences can be very helpful. We’ve actually developed a formula especially for the stress a newcomer experiences called “Changing Times.” This remedy not only helps adjustment into the new home, but eases anxiety from being in a rescue or shelter environment, and even helps to release emotional baggage from past abuse.

Introducing your new cat to other resident pets is another step taken from the base camp that’s discussed in another article, “Cat-to-Cat Introductions”.

The final element, and most tricky, involving base camp, is de-camping. When is it time to let the cat out and about the rest of the territory with confidence? We can’t tell you that. Only you will know when the cat is feeling strong enough to “spread her wings,” so to speak. There’s a fine line between territorially traumatizing a cat (especially one that’s been in and out of rescue situations), and allowing her to problem solve on her own.

Some cats are ready overnight, some in a few days; some—because of their history—can take a week or two. The more you can listen to what she has to say in those first crucial hours in camp, the clearer the answer will be for both of you. When it is time, keep the transition slow. We know you want that litterbox out of your room. Plan where its final destination will be and move it literally just a few feet a day. An ounce of slow-going is worth a pound of peeing-on-the-carpet prevention. Take all of the key elements from camp and begin to spread them throughout the house—the condo in a sunny window in the living room, the blankets to a couch, the toys in different rooms. This will allow your cat to recognize these objects, already claimed as his or hers, and transfer them to a new area of the territory.

Most of all, take your time! You only have one chance at introducing your new companion to your home and your life. What’s a few extra hours or days in the years you will spend together? Once again, congratulations and best wishes for a long and healthy relationship!

For personal assistance with your cat’s behavior problems, call Jackson Galaxy to schedule a consultation at 310-316-6618, or find out more at JacksonGalaxy.com.

By Jackson Galaxy

The common wisdom in introducing a newly adopted cat to a resident one in the past was to open the carrying case and “let them work it out.” We most definitely have a new way of looking at things; from the cat’s perspective. Cats are, after all, about territory. Bring a new, utterly alien scent of the same species into the house, and more times than not, we’re asking for chaos. Of course everyone has a story about introducing two cats that went smoothly doing the old fashioned technique. The point to stress is, if it goes poorly, this one meeting is the association that these two cats will hold onto for quite a long time and make a peaceable kingdom a difficult task. It is, ultimately, better to be safe than sorry.

A slow and steady introduction starts with the establishment of a base camp for the newcomer – a room of their own, with all their needs … food, water, toys, bedding, litterbox. Once you’ve set up his or her space, you’re ready to start letting the cats make positive associations between one another. This is key, and will be repeated ad infinitum; all associations between the cats during this critical period have to be as pleasing as possible to reduce possible friction when they finally have free access.

Let’s start with one of the most pleasing motivators—food! Feeding time will happen at the door of base camp until introduction is complete. If the resident cat is not on a scheduled feeding diet, it might be best to put him or her on one for now. Or, if you leave dry food out and supplement with wet food, greatly decrease the amount of dry so that wet feeding time is looked forward to more. Remember that the only time either cat gets wet food is during these “meet and greets” at the base camp door, which can be divided into two daily sessions. Place food bowls on either side of the door with a couple of feet of
breathing room for each cat. Ideally, there should be a family member on either side of the door to praise each cat as they eat. The idea is that they are rewarded with food for being so close to the scent of the unfamiliar cat, and also rewarded by you with praise for eating. At this initial point, the door should be closed; the cats can smell one another just fine. If they don’t devour their food at first, that’s okay. They will eventually eat. Don’t give in and move the food.

The next step is to open the door just a tiny crack, giving the cats limited visual access to each other. How soon do you move on to this step? As with all steps in introduction, pay attention to the cats; let their body language tell you when they are comfortable enough to move on. Remember that proceeding too quickly will force you to jump backwards by anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Slow and steady definitely wins this race. We need to remain safe, so use rubber doorstops on either side of the introduction door to prevent any more than visual accessibility. If the door is too high off the ground to use stops, or if one or both cats are muscling the door open, try using a hook and eye setup. Instead of using it to lock a door shut, you would employ it backwards, to give us just a couple of inches of cracked space between the door and the jamb.

Again, the time required in moving from step to step is determined by your observation and the cats’ level of comfort. Keep cracking the door further until each cat could, if they wished, bat at one another—first up to the elbow joint then all the way to the shoulder, just making sure not to leave enough room to let a head get through. The object of “the game” is to give them enough rope to succeed. If they fail, just go back to the previous step.

Other tricks to use during the introduction period are “scent swapping” and “site swapping.” In scent swapping, we take a washcloth per cat and rub them down with it, making sure to go across their cheeks, head, sides, and around the base of the tail. Then, present the other cat with the scent of the washcloth in a conspicuous part of their territory, perhaps near a favored sleeping spot or near (but respecting the space of) their food or water. This will start getting them accustomed to the new facts of life; their space will have to be shared with one another, and better to have this fact introduced by scent than sight.

Site swapping relies on more paws-on physical exploration of one another’s space. Once a day, switch the two cats. The new cat gets to explore the house while the resident cat is base camp to freely explore the scent of new arrival without the fear of retribution. This process is best done with a human partner just to make sure the cats don’t inadvertently get in each other’s way while trading places; but if you don’t have help, try putting the resident in, say, a bedroom. When the new cat heads for the kitchen or other area out of sight, move the resident cat into base camp. Both cats should get the praise and encouragement they need/deserve in bravely going where they have not gone before!

Don’t forget, during this entire process, to play with the cats! This may seem elementary, but remember, they are just energetic balloons naturally, and even more so during these intense times of stress. Of course, you will have separate play sessions during the introduction phase. Once they’ve met and cohabitated for a bit, group playtime will be another wonderful way of diverting aggression they might have towards one another into a positive route. Refer to our article on play therapy to learn the ins and outs of keeping them both as happy as possible during the period of adjustment.

When you think it’s time to let them be in the territory together at the same time, take precautions. If a fight breaks out, do not try to break it up with your hands! Unfortunately, this is most of the time our first instinct. You are almost sure to be clawed and bitten, and it will not be pretty. In the heat of the moment, the cats will not be able to distinguish between your arm and each other, and they will have no inhibition about attacking whatever is handy, even if it’s you. Instead, have an immediate barrier like a couple of large, thick towels or blankets at the ready. You can toss them over the cats to disorient them, and immediately relocate them by scooping them up inside the towel (to protect yourself). There is no need to follow this up with a scolding. That will not do anything except increase the cats’ agitation, which is just what you don’t need! Let the event pass with each cat in their own “time-out”, and start again fresh tomorrow—at the very beginning. Also make sure that when the two cats meet, they have escape routes from one another. Getting cornered is a sure recipe for a fight in the mind of a defense-minded animal like a cat.

Keep a close eye on all interactions for the first week or so, not letting the cats have free access to one another when nobody is home. Finally, keep the food and litter setup established in the base camp room, at least for the next while. The accepted “recipe” is three litterboxes for two cats (to be precise, 1 box per
cat + 1), so bear that in mind. Also bear in mind escape routes from the boxes, as the last place we want a skirmish to erupt is while one of the cats is having a “private moment.” They should be able to see as much of the room around them as possible when in the litterbox, which is why uncovered boxes would be highly recommended.

This should pretty well cover the bases for the initial introduction between your cats. Of course there are always variables, but the broken record theme should get you going; do it slow—there’s always tomorrow to make another positive impression. They can, over time, learn that every time they view or smell the other, something good will happen. Do it too quickly and that negative first impression might very well be the one that lasts.

For personal assistance with your cat’s behavior problems, call Jackson Galaxy at Little Big Cat!

Dogs can kill a cat very easily, even if they’re only playing. All it takes is one shake and the cat’s neck can break. Some dogs have such a high prey drive they should never be left alone with a cat. Dogs usually want to chase and play with cats, and cats usually become afraid and defensive. Use the techniques described above to begin introducing your new cat to your resident dog. In addition:

Practice Obedience
If your dog doesn’t already know the commands “sit,” “down,” “come” and “stay,” you should begin working on them. Small pieces of food will increase your dog’s motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of such a strong distraction as a new cat. Even if your dog already knows these commands, work with obeying commands in return for a tidbit.

Controlled Meeting
After your new cat and resident dog have become comfortable eating on opposite sides of the door, and have been exposed to each other’s scents as described above, you can attempt a face-to-face introduction in a controlled manner. Put your dog’s leash on, and using treats, have him either sit or lie down and stay. Have another family member or friend enter the room and quietly sit down next to your new cat, but don’t have them physically restrain her. Have this person offer your cat some special pieces of food or catnip. At first, the cat and the dog should be on opposite sides of the room. Lots of short visits are better than a few long visits. Don’t drag out the visit so long that the dog becomes uncontrollable. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other’s presence without fear, aggression or other undesirable behavior.

Let Your Cat Go
Next, allow your cat freedom to explore your dog at her own pace, with the dog still on-leash and in a “down-stay.” Meanwhile, keep giving your dog treats and praise for his calm behavior. If your dog gets up from his “stay” position, he should be repositioned with a treat lure, and praised and rewarded for obeying the “stay” command. If your cat runs away or becomes aggressive, you’re progressing too fast. Go back to the previous introduction steps. If you cannot get a handle on your dog’s behavior, a good quality training class can put you back in control of your dog so that your cat can enjoy her home too! Do not allow your dog to chase ANY small animals. That will only undermine training your dog to leave your cat alone.

Positive Reinforcements
Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with your cat is unacceptable behavior, he must also be taught how to behave appropriately, and be rewarded for doing so, such as sitting, coming when called, or lying down in return for a treat. If your dog is always punished when your cat is around, and never has “good things” happen in the cat’s presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat. Allow your cat to approach your dog. By all means, allow your cat to walk up and investigate your dog but watch carefully so your dog does not attempt to chase your cat. By allowing this to happen, your cat will gain trust in you and your dog that nothing bad is going to happen to her. Your cat will begin to realize that sharing a house with a dog (who is not allowed to approach her) isn’t so bad at all!

Give your dog an outlet for his chase behavior. Teach your dog to chase a ball, Frisbee, tether ball or squeaky toy rather than your cat. Regular exercise can help your dog remain calm around your cat.

Directly Supervise All Interactions Between Your Dog And Cat
You may want to keep your dog on-leash and with you whenever your cat is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your cat has an escape route and a place to hide. Keep your dog and cat separated when you aren’t home until you’re certain your cat will be safe.

Precautions
Dogs like to eat cat food. Eating cat food can cause kidney and liver problems in dogs because the protein and fat content in cat food is too high for dogs to digest appropriately. You should keep the cat food out of your dog’s reach (in a closet or on a high shelf). Eating cat feces is also a relatively common behavior in dogs. Although there are no health hazards to your dog, it’s probably distasteful to you. It’s also upsetting to your cat to have such an important object “invaded.” Unfortunately, attempts to keep your dog out of the litter box by “booby trapping” it will also keep your cat away as well. Punishment after the fact will not change your dog’s behavior. The best solution is to place the litter box where your dog can’t access it, for example: behind a baby gate; in a closet with the door anchored open from both sides and just wide enough for your cat; or inside a tall, topless cardboard box with easy access for your cat.

A Word About Kittens And Puppies
Because they’re so much smaller, kittens are in more danger of being injured, of being killed by a young energetic dog, or by a predatory dog. A kitten will need to be kept separate from an especially energetic dog until she is fully- grown, and even then she should never be left alone with the dog. Usually, a well-socialized cat will be able to keep a puppy in its place, but some cats don’t have enough confidence to do this. If you have an especially shy cat, you might need to keep her separated from your puppy until he matures enough to have more self-control.

When To Get Help
If introductions don’t go smoothly, seek professional help immediately (Call our Helpline at (916)383-PETS extension 9148). Animals can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between pets in the same family can often be resolved with professional help. Punishment won’t work, though, and could make things worse.

Questions About Surrendering Your Cat?

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